5.9 sport 3-4 pitches - The Gorge (Galaxy Buttress)
This route offers three to four pitches of relatively easy climbing for the grade, but the exposure and incredible views down the arete to the Cheakamus gorge make this a climb not to be missed.
Pitch 1 5.8 20m (3 bolts)
From the bottom station, traverse right across the face until you reach the arete. Follow the arete up to the belay ledge.
Pitch 2 5.7 40m (8 bolts)
Follow the arete up past a small ledge (possible belay) to a large angled ledge in a right facing corner. Take the time to enjoy the spectacular views of the raging Cheakamus below.
Pitch 3 5.9 25m (3 bolts)
Head out on the face to the right of the corner. A few tricky moves off the start lead to much easier ground. There is a belay station in a little from the top, though it's easy to miss.
Scramble up right to the road, taking care not to kick loose rocks down on each other. A fixed rope has been put in place for part of the way.
Driving north of Squamish you pass a big orange bridge (BOB). The road continues to climb then passes through a canyon before heading back down to meet the Cheakamus River. About 2.5km past the canyon you'll see a pull off on the left with a tourism information board. Park here.
At the southern end of this pull out you'll see a feint trail marked with tic-a-tape. It follows the road south for 100m before heading down and across a talus slope. Continue south through a narrowing canyon, then follow the trail along the base of the cliffs on the left, staying left wherever possible. You'll first pass the Court House area, then Gotham City, both on your left. Stay high past Gotham city then follow a feint trail across the talus, heading down towards Galaxy Buttress on the other side. You'll find a rap station with numerous hangers on the way down.
Using this station, rappel down to a few metres above the base of the buttress, clipping both ends of the rope as you go to keep it off the talus. This way you won't have loose rocks getting released from the slope when you pull the rope before you start the climb.
There is an older shorter route in to the buttress, but the hike in has been recently upgraded, and is worth the extra time.
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Posted By: simonl
- Mon Jul 08 20:27:04 UTC 2013
CommentJust wanted to post a short review to say we did this climb this weekend and although the guide book says you should rappel into the route it is definitely possible to walk in if you want to. The walk is fairly easy and is actually quite pleasant. Simply park in the pullout north of the climb. It's easy to recognise as it has the information board and picnic tables in it. If you hop over the barrier there is an obvious path down. If you follow the flashing and the cairns that people have put up you will get to the climb. The only thing to note is that as the climb comes into view there is a path down across the bottom of the scree slope. This is not the easiest path to the climb. Instead head up to the base of the crags opposite Star chek and walk along this path until it connects with the top of the handrail that has been put in to the bottom of Star Chek. We did this and found it very easy. Most of the online Beta says the walk in is a little difficult. However I think since the construction it has become easier and it is definitely possible if you should want to take the this route.
Posted By: ChrisO
- Fri Jul 20 20:28:45 UTC 2007
CommentA new fixed rope has been added to the base of the buttress, something to clip into while scrambling down the scree slope to access the initial belay station. Should anyone feel inclined, there is a need for some extra fixed rope at the top of the route. A fixed rope in place between trees on the scramble out to the rode could well do with an additional section. Kudos to whoever put in the current fixed rope.
A note on the gear on this route: whilst this is a sport route, some sections are quite run out. Although these sections are on relatively easy ground, the exposure may lead many to wish that they had brought with them a small rack of cams.