With a total elevation of 3144m, Mt. Bogart is the second highest peak in the Kananaskis range, after Galatea. There are a number of published routes (eg., Kain) for the east side, but all of these involve an 11km slog through the woods on the approach. The west approach via the tarns eliminates this factor, but presents more objective danger and requires a higher skill level and better route-finding abilities. This approach does not require any significant technical skills. This approach will take you from Spray lakes, through a wooded area, and up a cirque; therefore, you will have to travel a kilometer or two across a moraine and navigate through the tarns on the way up.
From the trail head, navigate through the wooded area until you encounter a fork in the path. Take the right path. The left will lead you up Sparrowhead. Continue along this path and emerge from the woods and you will find yourself at the foot of the moraine, which has a lot of really big boulders (one of them is a quarter of the volume of my bedroom). Once you pass this, you'll find yourself overlooking the tarns. Ahead, at the very back of the cirque, you will see a series of ridges leading upwards to the left. This is your objective, and will take you up Bogart.
There are a lot of large and loose rocks on this route, and the cliffs are very unstable. I would not recommend relying on them for grip, as large bits break off easily. This is some of the worst scree I've traveled on, and presents significant rockslide potential, so be careful and mind where you are treading. I would recommend taking a mountaineering axe as a third leg. You might also need it at the top, if there is any snow. I did the climb in a particularly dry november, so it wasn't too bad, but regretted not having my axe. Once you are at the ridge, just follow it to the summit block. The summit block may require some technical climbing, but its no more than a couple meters high.
Take smith dorrien/spray lakes trail to spray lake from Canmore, and watch for signs indicating Sparrowhead. There is a lot on the right hand side with some outhouses, and on the left, there is a trail going into the forest from the highway. It's easy to miss, so keep your eyes peeled. I would recommend purchasing a Gemtrek map in town for $9 or so. The drive is about 45 minutes on gravel.
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Posted By: Mmodir
- Thu Aug 20 22:17:44 UTC 2015
UpsideGreat views. Multiple terrain types DownsideNothing on this mountain can be trusted. Every pice of rick you reach at to grab comes off. Steep scree for an hour or two
Posted By: ChrisMarry
- Tue Jun 30 22:08:47 UTC 2015
UpsideIncredible 360 views, the valley is stunning and you'll be pretty much alone there. DownsideLoose rocks, be careful. CommentEdwards Rating: III (III) M L
GPS Track I have added here is giving you the easiest and most straightforward trail, it is our way down.
This was an incredible but tiresome scramble at 32 degrees with some bushwhacking and route finding on the way up by following Nugara's book indications. His book is excellent but it seems like he mixed up right and left on the second fork leading to the tarns and eventually Bogart (take it on your right as posted on this page).
This is an easy and beautiful hike up to the tarn on an obvious trail. Once at the tarns, you can see three peaks on your left with a scree slope. That's where your scramble begins. You have to scramble up that scree slope going around quite a few rock bands. Your goal is to get on the col between that first and second peak (false summit). Once at the col, you walk the ridge up to the false summit. At this point, you may want to climb down the rock bands leading to the first series of the beautiful and impressive slabby ridge or scramble down on its right in the scree slope to attain that next step the easier way. When you encounter that big knot after the first slabs, you will want to go around it on its right and get back on the ridge as soon as you find a weakness in it. If you're comfortable enough with climbing, you may be able to do so straight at the beginning of this knot and keep going on your ridge walk. The rock is bad there that climbing is not always a good option. If you are not alone, it may be extremely hazardous and you would want to wear an helmet.
The last portion of the ridge to the summit is quite obvious and you may have to take it on its right for a few steps and come back again to the ridge as soon as you can and feel comfortable doing so. This is incredible and moderate-difficult scramble!
// Elevation of 1424 m NET, 1998 m TOT (with a visit to Read's Tower base) and max 3156 m (3144 m officially).